Notes from the kitchen — how the food gets made, what to order, and the occasional opinion about tea.
Every wrapper starts as a ball of dough at half past six in the morning. Here is what happens between then and the moment a basket lands on your table — and why we have never once considered buying a machine to do it.
Pre-ground cumin loses most of its aromatic oils within weeks. Frozen filling weeps water into the wrapper. We break down four small ingredient decisions that change everything about how a dumpling tastes.
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First visit? Regulars have a rough consensus on the order to work through the menu. Here are five plates — one of them a dessert — that will tell you most of what you need to know about our kitchen.
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Steamed, kothey, jhol, C-momo, fried, sweet. They share a wrapper and almost nothing else. A plain-language tour of the six styles you will meet on our menu and where each one comes from.
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Feeding six people with three different spice tolerances and one very opinionated eight-year-old is a logistics problem. Our servers solve it a hundred times a week — here is their method.
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Under-steam and the filling is raw. Over-steam and the wrapper collapses. Our head chef walks through the narrow window that separates a great momo from a merely acceptable one.
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Sweet, spiced tea alongside a savory meal sounds wrong to a lot of American palates. We think it is one of the best pairings on the menu, and here is the argument.
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Some things on our menu travel beautifully. Some do not. A practical guide to building a takeout order that tastes the same at your kitchen table as it does at ours.
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Two hundred and forty covers between six and nine. We followed the Midtown kitchen through a single service to show what actually happens behind the pass.
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